Friday, August 08, 2003

First time in a Mumbai local

 

 

The first time I sat in the local train alone was when I was going to my cousin’s place in Santa Cruz. I stood in line for the usual what felt like eighteen hours, and got the ticket from Thane to Santa Cruz. They told me that there would be a lot of rush and that I couldn’t even get in, leave alone get a seat et cetera, the usual stories that are associated with train travelling experience of Mumbai. I caught a ‘dheemi’ local to CST, and to my surprise, got in easily, and got a place to sit too. The train started and I was a bit confused, because people had warned me to wait for the next train if there was too much of a rush. There were a few people around, but one couldn’t exactly call it a rush. Fortunately for me, a person noticed my yellow ticket and asked whether I was travelling using that ticket. As things turned out, I was a ticket less traveller in the first class compartment. I am now a criminal.

Fortunately, I was able to get off in Mulund, against the flow of the people, and then I saw why all their warnings made perfect sense. All the things that I had heard were not half able to describe what it actually was like. I had to catch the next train, and when I was in, I found that someone’s elbow was in my gut, someone’s face pushed hard against my back, and I even wondered if I was standing the right way up. There was this big weight on my chest. That was when the most interesting phase of the journey began. Strictly speaking, it was an experience that justifies every single bit of everything that you have heard about it in about eighteen degrees higher than the highest hyperbolic manner of speaking that you hear it in. I stood just behind the door, and could count no less than twelve heads in front of me, all leaning outside the door, and one person’s hand was obstructing the sign saying that it was dangerous to do what he was doing. Then there was the nose-picking, ear-clearing, eye-goop cleaning, sneezing and other even more undesirable public displays of personal grooming constantly going on in the background, and if you stared at them, they glared right back at you and looked as if they dared you to say anything about it. Then they would put in double the efforts at doing whatever they were doing. Someone sneezed, and the phlegm flew off his nose and landed on the elbow of a person leaning outside the door, and he didn’t notice anything, as he was busy entertaining himself by studying aerodynamics in great detail by cupping his hand and holding it outside the train, perpendicular to his body. I was squeamish after I looked at the gleaming bit of white liquid on his hands that reflected the bright sun outside.

It was a sight that I couldn’t get rid off till Kurla, when a huge chunk of the population got down, and another huge chunk got on. I was vaguely excited about it all, but I don’t know why. I asked someone which side of the train Matunga came, and had to push my way across, hearing a lot of swear words in the process. The train had not even stopped before I found myself on the platform. I had just stood there, suddenly all these people had just got down, and they took me with them.

At Matunga, I went across what they call the Z bridge, which, as I found out, is actually shaped like the letter M, and descended to the Matunga road station, and saw as much of a crowd, if not more, over there. Somehow, I squeezed myself in, thoroughly thrilled and asked someone which side Santa Cruz was going to come. All the people instantly started shouting and urged me to get down. I had climbed into the train going towards Churchgate, and geared myself up to shove my way across again. But it was unnecessary, as soon as I began, people stopped me and told me they wanted to get down at the next station too. It’s a common enough thing now, but I was frankly amazed to see half the train empty itself at Dadar.

From there, I caught another train to Santa Cruz, and this was less crowded, and I got in. I looked around, and there was just this one place to sit, and I wondered why, as there were many people standing, and waiting for a seat. I should have known something was wrong, but I asked my inner voice to shut up, and went and sat there. As soon as I sat down, a slight ripple of laughter went through the people around me. A Gujrati woman in a yellow sari with gaudy and revolting green peacocks on its border said “aa to beisee gayo!” in a jolly, amused inflection, that you see in friends who are bursting with mirth just before they tell a punch line of a joke. I cannot effectively translate that into English, but what it meant was that for some reason, I wasn’t supposed to sit there. I came to know this reason when I got up at Khar road, and noticed that someone had vomited below the seat on which I was sitting…

I know that you won’t care for the following bit of information, but I have to conclude in a tone that is positive at the least to me. I reached Santa Cruz, safely, with no nasty injuries or loss, except for the cap of my water bottle, which happened at Dadar.

-Aditya MJ

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